If you live in the Dubai, the UAE or anywhere in the Middle East, you'll find there is great focus on hard water related challenges for curly hair. Followed by dryness and moisture focused as well as humidity proof routines for frizz free curls, but what is often dropped of the priority list is protein. Protein shouldn’t be viewed through the lens of a one off treatment for curly hair, but a fundamental building block with its usage largely based on porosity as well as lifestyle considerations.

What does protein mean for curly hair?

To lay the foundation, it’s important to understand what protein is, without the overly technical jargon. Protein is the primary structural component of hair – keratin specifically. Human hair is made up of approximately 80-90% keratin, this is the internal architecture and backbone of the hair fibre.

Keratin Treatments vs Protein in Curly Haircare

Within the Middle East curly hair space, the term “keratin” has become interchangeable with chemical straightening treatments. To avoid any doubt, Keratin straightening treatments work by chemically altering the internal bonds of the hair to rebond and force a smoother straighter shape. 

Keratin as a protein in haircare, on the other hand, works on the surface and internal structure of the hair fibre to reinforce strength and breakage resistance without altering your natural curl pattern.

This is what gives hair its strength, structure and shape. Without this structural integrity, the hair fibre becomes weak and fragile. This is why protein is essential for all hair types, but most especially textured hair.

Curly hair needs protein as well as moisture to truly thrive. Moisture can not be retained if there’s significant protein loss in the hair shaft, this illustrates why moisture and protein work handed in hand and not in isolation.

Frequency of use, what form it takes and where it fits into your curly hair routine is where the difference lies.

Why Protein Matters for Curly Hair in the Middle East

In the UAE and wider Middle East, we’re exposed to significant levels of sunlight all year round. Case studies have shown that UV exposure is known to degrade the hair’s proteins over time, making protein reinforcement particularly important in this region.

If you add humidity effects, hard water and day to day friction caused by styling and manipulation, you compound the need for targeted protein infusions in curly hair.

How and when to incorporate protein into your hair care regimen

Protein can be found across a range of products from cleansers, conditioners, serums to stylers, however its content varies. For proper reinforcement, at Emerson, we recommend incorporating protein reinforcement efforts in the conditioning phase of your wash day routine.

Why: Targeted treatments stay on the hair longer which gives protein the ability to penetrate the hair cuticle and reinforce internal bonds.

Frequency: General rule of thumb is every 3-4 weeks or wash days for high porosity hair and every 4-6 weeks for low to medium porosity hair.

Though, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to curl care, so it’s important to observe your hair on wash day and the days that follow.

How To Determine if Your Curls Need Protein

A few cues to help you determine whether you are due a protein treatment:

1. Curls experience breakage from light tension. For example, lightly pulling your hair, detangling your curls when wet.
2. Excessive breakage when manipulating your hair when wet. This is a key indicator of protein loss, particularly as curly hair textures are strongest and adaptable when wet. The opposite is true for straighter hair textures.
3. Your curls rapidly lose moisture no matter which moisturising products you use to impart and retain moisture.

Is Protein Sensitivity a Real Thing for Curly Hair?

It’s important for us to address this topic, as it’s one of our most frequently asked questions.

Question: My curls are protein sensitivity, so I don’t use protein in my hair, what should I do?

Answer: It’s not scientifically possible for your hair to be protein sensitive as the hair itself is made up of protein. However, it is possible for your hair to react negatively to a protein treatment, if it's not correctly balanced with moisture, or the amount of protein in a product is excessive.

The term protein sensitive is what we take to mean protein imbalance. Protein comes in various forms and the type of protein your curls require will be subject to your porosity and general lifestyle.

Best Types of Protein For Curly Hair

Hydrolyzed Proteins, unlike whole proteins, hydrolyzed proteins are broken down into smaller molecules allowing for faster and better absorption in the hair shaft.

These are the best and most common types of proteins used for repair, structural reinforcement and strength, they include:

• Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
• Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
• Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
• Hydrolyzed Quinoa
• Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein

These types of proteins fill in the gaps and weak spots found in the hair fibre, particularly useful for more porous textured hair – high porosity, chemically treated, heat treated and colour treated hair types need this type of reinforcement more regularly.

To avoid stiffness and straw like curls, these proteins should be balanced with moisture.

Another example of protein is amino acids, in hair care product formulations they are individual and unlinked. They are the smallest units of protein which attract and bind to water, almost taking on a humectant like property.

This type of protein is recommended for more protein sensitive curls as they support elasticity and the hair’s natural moisture balance, but doesn't stiffen the hair.

Best Protein Conditioners and Treatments for Curly Hair in the UAE

Below are our top 5 Protein conditioners and treatments, perfect across different porosity types and all textures, available via Emerson's Protein Rich Collection.

1. Protein Defence by Healthy Hair Studio By Enitan - A pure concentrated protein treatment, suitable for all porosity types. Not to be used alone but mixed with your favourite moisturising conditioner with a ratio of 3:1.

Key Protein Ingredients: Hydrolyzed Protein

Best suited to: All porosities 

2. Inahsi Mango Avocado Restorative Hair Masque -  A deep treatment masque that conditions by restoring optimal moisture - protein balance, to help restore protein loss, retain moisture and minimise the effects of daily manipulation and tension.

Key Protein Ingredients: Hydrolyzed oat protein and silk amino acids

Best suited to: Medium to High Porosity

3. Kinky Curly Stellar strands - An immensely hydrating treatment designed to improve elasticity, reduce breakage and boost moisture.

Key Protein ingredients: Silk Amino Acids

Best suited to: Low to Medium Porosity

4. Ecoslay Matcha Boost Protein Deep Conditioner - A plant based protein treatment  designed to strengthen hair, restore elasticity and volume. 

Key Protein Ingredients: Hydrolyzed Quinoa, Keratin and Matcha

Best suited to: High Porosity

5. Uncle Funky's Daughter Heal & Renew Intensive Hair Masque - A transformative protein - moisture treatment formulated to restore strength and moisture to weak, limp or damaged curls .  

Key Protein Ingredients: Silk Amino Acids

Best suited to: Low to Medium Porosity

Protein as A Part of Overall Curl Care in the Middle East

In a climate like the Middle East, where curly and textured hair is constantly exposed to sun, heat, hard water minerals and frequent styling manipulation, protein isn't optional, its essential. The goal isn't to overload the hair, but to maintain structural balance over time. When protein is incorporated correctly and sequenced in line with your hair's condition/porosity, your hair texture becomes more resilient, defined and maintains moisture for longer. Understanding your porosity, lifestyle and environment remains key to building a healthy hair regimen that works.