Glossary
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Ayurverda
The processes of restoration of hair growth are achieved through a special type of Ayurvedic diet combined with healing remedies that are completely natural, as well as with procedures that stimulate the body’s natural functions and purification
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Apple cider vinegar (acv)
Typically used in a diluted form as a final rinse after shampooing and before conditioning. Seals and tightens the cuticle layer for improved shine and smoothness.
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Behentrimonium methosulfate
Also known as BMS, a non-sulfate, derived from rapeseed oil. Prized for its effective detangling abilities, it's able to penetrate the hair shaft making it an excellent moisturizer and conditioner, while remaining gentle on the hair and skin, without coating the scalp or causing buildup.
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Braid out
A hairstyle that is created by using three-strand braids. Methods include creating a head full of small braids to create super defined curls, big braids to create a fluffier texture, or add flexi rods to a braid to create a ringlet/crimpy curl pattern.
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Cetearyl alcohol
A chemical found in cosmetic products which acts as a thickening agent. It's a white, waxy substance made from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, both fatty alcohols. They're found in animals and plants, like coconut and palm oil. As an emollient, cetearyl alcohol is considered an effective ingredient for soothing and healing dry hair and skin.
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Cetyl alcohol
See Cetearyl alcohol
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Cetrimonium chloride
or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, belongs to a family of molecules known as cationic surfactants, which can be used as emulsifying or conditioning agent. Long-chain quaternary ammonium surfactants, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, are generally combined with long-chain fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohols, in formulations of hair conditioners and shampoos.
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Cuticle
The hair cuticle is the outermost part of the hair shaft. It is formed from dead cells, overlapping in layers, which form scales that strengthen and protect the hair shaft.
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Curly girl method (cgm)
The Curly Girl Method, from Lorraine Massey's book “Curly Girl: The Handbook,” is a hair care method that trades in damaging habits (like shampooing and heat styling) for a healthy curly hair regimen using just conditioner and gel.
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Chemically treated
Tinting, bleaching, and perming create tiny openings in the hair through damaging hair through chemical processes involving peroxides, hydroxides, and thioglycolates. This creates spaces. When tinting, color pigment adheres onto the hair. Eventually, though, after repeated applications, your hair feels coarse and dry, due to more holes than the color can fill.
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Caprylic/capric triglyceride
An emollient, derived from coconut oil and glycerin, that helps to condition and soften the skin and hair.
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Curl pattern
“Hair types”, or the classification of each hair texture, is most often broken down into four main groups (1, 2, 3, and 4), with each group further divided into three subcategories (a, b, and c). For wavy/curly hair patterns grouping begin from 2A through to 4C.
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Co-wash
A co-wash is the use of a specially formulated cream cleanser to remove buildup and cleanse the hair without the lathering or harsh ingredients, such as sulfates or parabens, typically used in shampoo.
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Clarifying
The process of cleansing and removing a build-up of oils, styling products, tap water minerals and/or medications from the hair. Typically performed with specialty shampoos or baking soda rinses.
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Curl training
The purpose of curl training is to enhance your existing curl pattern and create more definition. This method slowly restores curl memory, which clumps your hair strands from uncoordinated frizz, into the curls that you were born wit
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Dusting
Hair dusting, a technique for trimming your hair without compromising its length. To over-simplify the technique, typically trimming ¼ inch or less. The amount of hair trimmed is usually so small that it appears as dust.
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Dc (deep condition)
A moisturizing, strengthening and/or damage-repair product that is applied right after cleansing, and often allowed to penetrate for 15 – 30 minutes with the use of a mild heat source. Used to soften, condition hair strands for increased shine and manageability.
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Fluff
The use of fingers or a hair pick to add volume and shape to natural hair.
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Glycerin
also known as glycerol, is a natural compound derived from vegetable oils or animal fats. It's a clear, colorless, odorless and syrupy liquid with a sweet taste. It is a moisturizing powerhouse, providing softening and lubricating benefits.
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Humecants
Humectants are materials used in products to moisturize dry or damaged hair. They promote moisture retention by attracting water molecules from the local environment and binding them to specific sites along their structure.
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Hair typing
Hair type and curl pattern describe the specific shape of your hair strands, the way it naturally grows. Your hair type is actually dependent on the shape of the hair follicle on your scalp. Similar to pores in the skin, hair follicles are the holes from which your hair grows. The more oval shaped your hair follicle is, the curlier your hair will be! While we can manipulate our hair into different shapes with methods like chemical or heat straightening, your DNA and genetics is the most prominent factor in hair texture.
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Loc
An abbreviation for liquid or leave in conditioner, oil and cream. The name itself signifies the products that shouldbe applied, as well as the order in which to apply them, making it an easy-to-remember curly routine.
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Lco
An abbreviation for liquid or leave-in conditioner, cream, and oil. Following the steps laid out in the acronym, you apply a water-based product, a hair cream, and hair oil for effortless, lasting moisture and hydration.
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No-poo
A technique used by some wherein they avoid using shampoo to cleanse their hair. Many will use clear water or a co-wash instead.
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Protein
Protein is used to build tissue cells, including the cells of your hair, skin and nails. 80-85% of your hair is composed of a protein called keratin.
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Ph
pH (power of Hydrogen) is a scale used to specify the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution. A pH of 7 is chemically neutral. Hair care products with a pH value in between 3.5 and 5.5 are considered as being beneficial for hair care product.
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Paraben
A common category of preservatives used in cosmetics and hair care products. Compared to other, safer alternatives, they are cheaper, and mimic anti-microbial agents in plants. Research has found that parabens and mineral oil may cause considerable damage to the hair and scalp.
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Porosity
Hair porosity is about your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. The porosity of your hair affects how well oils and moisture pass in and out of the outermost layer of your hair, known as the cuticle. For most, porosity is genetic, but it can also be affected by external factors such as exposure, heat treatments and chemical processing. Knowing your hair's porosity can help you choose the right products to keep your hair well-moisturized, supple, strong and shiny.
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Protective style
Any hair style which results in minimal manipulation and keeps the ends of the hair tucked away. Protective styling helps to prevent dehydration and damage, by eliminating the need for mechanical manipulation, (combing, brushing, picking, etc.) and shielding against environmental exposure, (i.e. sun, heat, cold, wind). These styles tuck away our delicate ends and usually group the strands together. Some examples are buns, braids, twists, ponytails and various head coverings
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Plopping
A heat-free drying technique that utilizes a cloth to air-dry curls and coils. The idea is that by placing your hair atop your head, loosely wrapped in a cloth, curls and coils will almost scrunch themselves.
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Pre-poo
Coating your hair with natural oils or conditioner and allowing them to penetrate before shampooing hair. This is done to detangle and protect hair prior to shampooing.
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Pineappleing
Pulling hair into one or several pony puffs, (depending on hair length), using covered or ouch less bands. The balance of the hair remains free. The puff(s) are positioned at the top or at several sites across the head. This procedure helps preserve the coil/curl definition of the style overnight, and also provides some stretch to the hair. When using this technique, it’s best to sleep on a satin pillowcase. In the morning, the bands are removed and the sections are gently shaken or fluffed.
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Praying hands method
A method of product application where product is evenly distributed throughout the hair. Place one hand on either side of a section of hair that has been coated in product. Pressing your hands together over the hair, gently smooth your hands down the length of your hair. Repeat as many times as necessary to evenly coat your strands. The praying hands method is meant to smooth the hair cuticle to add shine and preserve definition.
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Refreshing
Rehydrating your hair strands to revive its bounce and moisture. An instant refresher for textured hair is water, as in it's natural state it helps reform hydrogen bonds which cause hair to be curly.
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Sulfate
Sulfates are surfactants, their job is to reduce the level of surface tension between your shampoo and your skin, allowing the active ingredients in the shampoo to do a more effective job of cleaning dirt, oil and dead skin from your scalp and hair.Two main types of sulfates are used in shampoo: sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. Products with a high concentration of sulfates may contribute to cell damage and excess stripping away of natural oils and hair proteins.
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Silk amino acids
Silk Amino Acids, or SAA for short, are used as key ingredients in many hair products for boosting hair growth. These jelly-like proteins lock the moisture in the hair. SAAs bind the hair fibres together to provide strength and improve elasticity.
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Slip
Slip refers to how lubricious the product makes your hair feel after applying. This is primarily used to describe hair products (i.e. daily conditioner, deep conditioner, or leave-in conditioner), which are usually applied during washing and detangling.
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Silicones
Silicones create a thin, waterproof coating around your hair cuticle keeps your hair hydrated from within, while also preventing moisture from penetrating the hair shaft and causing frizz. Silicones also protect your hair from damage caused by heat-styling tools such as blow dryers and hot irons.
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Sealing
Applying a product or single ingredient, such as a natural oil or butter, to the hair to help lock in moisture. May be applied along the entire hair strand or just to the ends, following cleansing and/or the application of a cream or conditioner containing water.
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Shingling
A type of Wash n’ Go styling where a styling curl cream or curl gel is liberally applied section-by section to clean, extremely wet hair. Whilst th`styling product is applied to each small section of hair, the section is smoothed between the thumb and forefinger, in a downward motion from root to tip. The smoothing action, in combination with the styling product immediately makes the coil/curl/wave pattern much more defined. Hair can either air-dried or dried with the use of a hood dryer or diffuser. Once dry, the hair can be lightly fluffed for volume.
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Sodium lauryl sulfate (sls)
A synthetic detergent associated with hair dehydration, and semi-permanent and permanent hair color fading. Commonly found in conventional shampoos.
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Stretching
Refers to the inhibition of hair shrinkage which is characteristic of tightly coily/curly hair. With use of specific stretching techniques, more of the hair’s actual length is revealed in the finished style. Some products are also thought to minimize shrinkage, thereby helping to stretch the hair.
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Tocopheryl acetate
A fat-soluble vitamin from a class of organic compounds, many of which are known to have vitamin E activity. It helps support a healthy scalp and hair as it has natural antioxidant effects that could assist with maintaining hair growth. The vitamin's antioxidant properties could help reduce the amount of oxidative stress and free radicals that cause the hair follicle cells in a person's scalp to break down.
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Transitioning
Transitioning to natural hair is a simple process of growing out your natural texture before cutting off the processed or damaged ends.
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Twist out
A hairstyle created by first two-strand twisting the hair while wet or damp. After the hair is dry, the twists are carefully released with use of a natural oil or butter to eliminate frizz.
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Two strand twist
A styling technique whereby sections of hair are divided into two smaller sections and then wound around each other. The last half-inch or so of each twist is left loose and twirled around the index finger into a coil. Please see definition for Twist Out
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Wash 'n' go
Where your hair is worn in it's natural curl pattern, without manipulating the style with tools, braids or stretching